29 Comments

Well now I’m hungry (and it’s 10:30pm in Seattle!). Looks amazing, but it’s also nice to know that it can work as a sauce instead of requiring ravioli preparation. Thank you for this recipe!

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Yes! I think I'll personally be doing the sauce version often and the ravioli more for special occasions!

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Jan 30, 2023Liked by Emiko Davies

This sounds amazing !!!! I see another Seattle native thinks the same- I’ll try it.

Wish The girls were close to help me ❤️

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Yes, this is a good one to do with a couple of helpers!

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Even at French time-8:30 am, I am plotting this for lunch! Thanks for sharing another lovely old cookbook.

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I will highlight others that I can't resist sharing -- this new column for Corriere is all about picking things out of old cookbooks like this. In fact, there are quite a few more gems coming up!

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I love this book! I bought a copy at a flea market and gave it to Sophie as a gift. But since it lives at Sophie's house I haven't gotten a real chance to go through it.

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Better find a moment to steal it off her shelf and have a flip through!

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Definitely on the radar to make, thank you

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I'd love to know what you think!

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Jan 30, 2023Liked by Emiko Davies

This sounds so delicious, thank you for sharing! I love the Ligurian coast and dream of the fresh seafood found there. I’ve also been having a moment with vintage cookbooks and appreciate the simplicity of the recipes.

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Yes, they really are so simple, there is this understanding that the reader already sort of knows what to do. The original recipe in Buonassissi's book is much shorter than the way I write recipes and I even skipped a step and simplified his!

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What was the step you skipped Emiko, loved to know

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I just simplified it a little -- his steps had the reader cooking the fish in one pan; making the sauce in another; and opening the shells in another. Obviously he didn't have to do the dishes! I basically put the fish and sauce together (which in my opinion makes the sauce even better) and you could arguably throw the shells in there too, but if you prefer not to open them with tomato-y fingers, then a simple steam in a separate pan for those as well.

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Oh yes I remember now you writing that in your text

I did it all in one pan like you suggested

I am still thinking about the pasta being so silky

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Well, a third Washingtonian (Olympia) is enchanted by this recipe, which seems perfect for our Salish Sea rockfish and our own version of arzillo... Thank you for finding and sharing this so beautifully.

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I bet that would be just perfect for this!

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This sounds so good! I've never been sadder about moving to a landlocked state (Colorado).

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Literally the idea of being landlocked makes my husband feel claustrophobic. We once drove 4 hours inland on a visit to Australia (something you kind of can't do in Italy as it's so narrow, the coastline is never too far) and he was horrified at the thought of being so far from the sea! Is access to decent fresh seafood pretty limited there?

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You can get great seafood at restaurants -- I'm sure they have a supply chain for FRESH fresh -- but for cooking at home, I usually buy frozen and thaw it myself. The variety is definitely more limited than what I used to be able to get in California. There is freshwater fish here, but I don't know any avid fishers myself!

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So strange to have parmesan in the filling. I would have expected it to be too earthy (though the salt in it would recall the sea).

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Parmesan usually appears in ravioli fillings to help "bulk" it up and give it a firmer consistency so it's easier to handle the ravioli. The original had way more, I used half and the flavour was overpowering so reduced it further to just a little for flavour/umami!

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This recipe sounds perfect! I will definitely try it! I have some old Italian cookbooks from my mother. I will have to go look through them again. Thanks for the inspiration and for the recipe.

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This sounds spectacular, Emiko!! My mouth is watering at the thought.

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Good Morning Emiko,

I made the Perfume of the Sea Ravioli for Sunday Supper.

While it tasted delicious your fish must have been the prize, mine needed more flavor, I added the egg, parmesan cheese, salt and pepper only.

The sauce was light and delicious, loved the idea of steaming whole fish in red sauce.

I would cook my whole fish this way and serve it as is.

The pasta was silky and so easy to work with, must be the wine.

Perfect for the delicate fish stuffing. I will make it again.

Thank you for sharing.

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Have never wanted to get to the seaside, (or make ravioli, or travel to Italy!) more. Thank you for the way you enlighten our tables with your stories and recipes, Emiko.

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Jan 4Liked by Emiko Davies

Looking forward to cooking this recipe on the weekend, seems a good fit for an Australian summer. How many serves should this make Emiko?

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Sorry I should have written this into the recipe! It should be enough for 4 people.

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