What an amazing sounding trip! I have never been to the south part of Japan.
I always tell people to stay at a ryokan for a true Japanese experience, but also warn people that not all ryokan have private bathing facilities. It was a challenge for my family to use the communal bath, sitting on those little communal stools to wash.
Once you get used to it and realise that everyone is just doing their own thing, keeping to themselves, I think it can be a really freeing experience! My tween was a little too self conscious to do the onsen this trip -- I get it, but I felt a bit sad that she missed this experience on this trip. As a 5/6 year old she had loved it!
Thank you, thank you for this wonderful travel piece. We are going in May to Japan and will see a bit of the Inland Sea...love these pieces you do with all the practical advise, it is SO helpful and your writing in general is inspiring. Love it so much. Thank you!!
Emiko, you had me at udon taxi!! What a fantastic and generous post. Am really excited about plotting a trip to Shodoshima - I had started some research already and read about Yasuo Yamamoto and his pioneering role in reviving soy sauce made in traditional kioke barrels through his work with Yamaroku Shoyu (I love that his annual kioke summit includes an international hula competition using the hoops that are crafted onto kioke barrels!), but I did not know about the local somen speciality or the amazing sesame oil factory with its heady, island-wide scent! Thanks for this fantastic lowdown and I can’t wait to read more on the beautiful pages of your next book!
You are going to absolutely love it. Let me know if you need any more specific tips, I cannot wait to go back. We loved the Shodoshima International Hotel too -- it was very nostalgic for me with its games parlour (air hocky! Original Donkey Kong! Claw machines!) and the free yakult and onigiri after onsen visits. It felt like trips I had done growing up, but also so special being able to wake up at dawn to see the Angel Road appear out of the sea and just walk down there in my pyjamas!
Oh wow, what a great tip, thank you! I love the sound of that hotel already – such character and charm! I love that it was somewhere special that evoked a lot of good memories for you … sometimes you just need a place to crash and it's always wonderful when a place can be so much more than that! Thanks also for your very generous offer to share your well-researched intel, too – wow, that's very kind. I look forward to getting stuck into proper planning mode soon, but just need to get through a stack of deadlines first. In the meantime, I can't wait to read more of your Ja-pantry trip updates (and more about your fascinating book, too)!
I have said that the 2 easiest ways to "eat like a local" in Japan is to use konbini and depachika (department store basements).
Fortunately or unfortunately, we've had family drive us around in Takamatsu, so I didn't know about udon taxis. I looked up their website and it looks great.
What a wonderful wonderful trip Emiko! I have only been to Japan once but it is one of my favourite places ever. And I agree on the no frills business hotels and how cheap it is to eat out - I think Japan's reputation for being an expensive place to travel is really undeserved!
Thank you also for sharing so many tips so generously - will make a mental note of those for my next Japan trip!
This brought back wonderful memories of the time I spent several weeks staying in a ryokan in a Buddhist temple in Kyoto while in graduate school for landscape architecture 25 years ago. I lived off the egg sandwiches at the nearby convenience store and still dream of the breakfasts of rice, pickled vegetables and miso soup. Time to go back!
What an amazing sounding trip! I have never been to the south part of Japan.
I always tell people to stay at a ryokan for a true Japanese experience, but also warn people that not all ryokan have private bathing facilities. It was a challenge for my family to use the communal bath, sitting on those little communal stools to wash.
Once you get used to it and realise that everyone is just doing their own thing, keeping to themselves, I think it can be a really freeing experience! My tween was a little too self conscious to do the onsen this trip -- I get it, but I felt a bit sad that she missed this experience on this trip. As a 5/6 year old she had loved it!
I just got this recommendation randomly and realized I have your cookbook Gohan wow!
Aww I love that! Thank you!
Good to reconnect through monthly membership, a little pre-ChristmasEve stocking filler to myself!
Thank you so much!
Thank you, thank you for this wonderful travel piece. We are going in May to Japan and will see a bit of the Inland Sea...love these pieces you do with all the practical advise, it is SO helpful and your writing in general is inspiring. Love it so much. Thank you!!
Oh you are in for such a treat, I cannot wait to go back to that area and explore more! We really fell in love with the Seto sea.
My mom is Japanese. I’ve visited twice and hope to go back soon! I love this country - absolutely beautiful culture! Loved your piece! Many thanks!
You're so welcome, thank you for reading!
Emiko, you had me at udon taxi!! What a fantastic and generous post. Am really excited about plotting a trip to Shodoshima - I had started some research already and read about Yasuo Yamamoto and his pioneering role in reviving soy sauce made in traditional kioke barrels through his work with Yamaroku Shoyu (I love that his annual kioke summit includes an international hula competition using the hoops that are crafted onto kioke barrels!), but I did not know about the local somen speciality or the amazing sesame oil factory with its heady, island-wide scent! Thanks for this fantastic lowdown and I can’t wait to read more on the beautiful pages of your next book!
You are going to absolutely love it. Let me know if you need any more specific tips, I cannot wait to go back. We loved the Shodoshima International Hotel too -- it was very nostalgic for me with its games parlour (air hocky! Original Donkey Kong! Claw machines!) and the free yakult and onigiri after onsen visits. It felt like trips I had done growing up, but also so special being able to wake up at dawn to see the Angel Road appear out of the sea and just walk down there in my pyjamas!
Oh wow, what a great tip, thank you! I love the sound of that hotel already – such character and charm! I love that it was somewhere special that evoked a lot of good memories for you … sometimes you just need a place to crash and it's always wonderful when a place can be so much more than that! Thanks also for your very generous offer to share your well-researched intel, too – wow, that's very kind. I look forward to getting stuck into proper planning mode soon, but just need to get through a stack of deadlines first. In the meantime, I can't wait to read more of your Ja-pantry trip updates (and more about your fascinating book, too)!
I've been to Japan twice and yearn to return. Your post is so helpful and encouraging. Thank you!
You're welcome, I hope it comes of use on your next trip!
Amazing read
Thank you!
I have said that the 2 easiest ways to "eat like a local" in Japan is to use konbini and depachika (department store basements).
Fortunately or unfortunately, we've had family drive us around in Takamatsu, so I didn't know about udon taxis. I looked up their website and it looks great.
Such a fun way to get around trying udon! Maybe another reason to return, though you are lucky to have family there to take you around!
What a wonderful wonderful trip Emiko! I have only been to Japan once but it is one of my favourite places ever. And I agree on the no frills business hotels and how cheap it is to eat out - I think Japan's reputation for being an expensive place to travel is really undeserved!
Thank you also for sharing so many tips so generously - will make a mental note of those for my next Japan trip!
Thanks Sophia! I hope that you get to go back again soon x
This brought back wonderful memories of the time I spent several weeks staying in a ryokan in a Buddhist temple in Kyoto while in graduate school for landscape architecture 25 years ago. I lived off the egg sandwiches at the nearby convenience store and still dream of the breakfasts of rice, pickled vegetables and miso soup. Time to go back!