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I remember having a lovely vegetarian lunch at Ora d'Aria some years ago (a bit pricey but worth it).

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Umbria is similar to Tuscany in that it's hard to find vegetable forward dishes if you don't see them on the menu front and center. We usually ask for ALL the contorni first, to share as small plates as antipasti. This includes everything from the usual cicoria and roasted potatoes to seasonal vegetables like asparagus or porcini. Then we round that out with torta di testo (flatbread) and we've got ourselves a vegetable antipasto!

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It’s funny I have always thought of Tuscany as a place where vegetables are easily on offer--maybe because we have mostly spent time in spring. Asparagus and artichoke and fava 💚 I could eat them all on repeat.

But then I usually haven’t totally loved most meat in Italian trattorie (and I’m kind of terrified of the bistecca, I know that’s just me).

Its so interesting to hear that fish is more available! I look forward to trying it.

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Aug 17, 2022Liked by Emiko Davies

Love this piece - I didn't know all the history too! The local markets are great in Florence. I cooked a lot when I was there and fell in love with Tuscan cuisine. I still haven't tried bistecca - maybe one day, but ribollita is my favorite.

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