Postcard from Palermo

Eating my way through the Sicilian gem in less than 24 hours

“I’m really unhappy,” scolded the Duchess, “You’re here for too short a time. And the markets are closed on Mondays!” She was right, it was terrible timing and I had less than 24 hours. But I was just grateful to finally be in steamy Palermo, the capital of one the most fascinating Italian regions, floating between Europe and Africa.

Admittedly 24 hours is just not enough in this layered, historic city, it really isn’t. But I was on my way to Anna Tasca Lanza as a guest teacher for a 5 night “Summer Bounty” cooking workshop (here is a taste), which saw all the guests arriving the next day in time for a welcome aperitivo, so I made do as best I could: I stayed the night at the Duchess Nicoletta Lanza Tomasi’s Butera28 Apartments, simple, self catering apartments in the 18th century Palazzo Lanza Tomasi, and I spent the next morning following Linda Sarris, aka “The Cheeky chef” and Palermo resident, around her favourite spots, eating our way around the city before venturing into central Sicily.

Here are some highlights of this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it stay!

Butera28 has intrigued me for several years. It came on my radar around five years ago or so when I was asked to write a story on it and the Duchess’ now famous cooking classes, with my talented photographer friend Lean Timms to shoot it — but sadly that trip never came to fruition. Not only did Duchess Nicoletta remember me when I wrote to her but she insisted on meeting to talk in person (and scold me about not staying long enough for a cooking class! I will remedy this one day.) In the meantime I did get a quick peek at the kitchen (above), the menu (gelo di pesca!) and the fabulous terrace, complete with a jungle of herbs and lemons and pet tortoises.

One of the things that makes this place so interesting is the opportunity to visit a lived-in, beautifully restored historic palazzo. It was once home of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of Il Gattopardo, The Leopard and great-grandson of the Prince who inspired the main character in the book.

It was also walking distance to the main quarters of Palermo, which is very handy, even though I found out just how bad timing a Sunday night/Monday morning stay is — many restaurants and cafes are closed, including the ones close to Butera28 that Nicoletta and her team had recommended. Luckily Linda had also mentioned I should try her partner Carlo Napoli’s restaurant, Alivàru Osteria, which was conveniently only a few minutes walk away.

It was just the thing, olives from Carlo’s 150 year old family business, his mother’s eggplant caponata, an incredibly fresh fragolino fish (or paolotto as they are known in Palermo), which was presented to me for approval, along a bowl of perfect, chilled watermelon.

The next morning, I met with Linda and it was just like finally meeting a friend I hadn’t seen since college, like a happy reunion. We didn’t mess about — we only had 2 hours and there were two markets, the more curated Capo and the colourful, wonderfully chaotic Ballarò to cover, plus a coffee roaster, a convent full of pastries, gelato and a street full of kitchenware (my dream). It was glorious. It was all the things I love about discovering a city, a mix of history, culture and so much food.

My favourite place that I will share with you that Linda took me to (you’ll have to go with her for the crispiest fried chickpea panelle, the most divine lemon gelato, ricotta baked and topped with orange marmelade and pistachios, stigghiole for the adventurous — delicious lamb intestines wrapped around spring onions and grilled over flames right on the street — where to get the cutest moulds or colours for marzipan fruit, also known as frutta di martorana, the best olives and more) is a cloister.

The convent of Santa Caterina houses a pastry shop known as I Segreti del Chiostro (the secret of the cloister). The first place that Linda lead me to was the terrace, which has a floor of mismatched majolica tiles and fruit trees of all seasons encircling a fountain — a combination that basically describes my dream garden, a real oasis. I could sit here all day. Now I find out that there is also a pastry shop? Leave me here! If I had had the time, I would have eaten my way through the pastries.

Traditionally, pastries were made by nuns to secret recipes and Sicilian convents had their own specialities. To not lose them, they are now being made at the Segreti del Chiostro, to ancient recipes. There are cookies, frutta di martorana, a cannoli making station (of gargantuan proportions), minne di vergine (ricotta filled pastries from Catania that look like breasts — here is the recipe is you are curious), cassata (the Queen of Sicilian desserts) and even gelo di mellone, my very favourite summer time treat in Sicily, a watermelon pudding.

Linda picked out some delicious, soft almond meal cookies with sweet centres of zuccata, candied squash. I spent the rest of the morning thinking about candied squash (which Linda help me get later in the market). I could have literally just sat in this spot under a citrus tree all day, but freshly fried panelle were calling my name.

Palermo Address book:

• I Segreti del Chiostro, Convento di Santa Caterina, Piazza Bellini, open 10 am to 6 pm

• Linda Sarris, The Cheeky Chef Palermo Market Walk (but if you have longer, you should check out her new 4-night “Palermo Vera” program!)

• Osteria Alivàru, Via della Vetriera, 1, lunch and dinner every day except Sunday (just dinner).

• Cooking with the Duchess, Butera28 Apartments, Via Butera 28.

Some more on Sicily:

• Tomato week at Anna Tasca Lanza

• Fabrizia Lanza’s involtini di carne

• A trip around Mt Etna and Ortigia