One wonderful street in Venice

A mini guide from my address book

I was recently in Venice - just a whirlwind daytrip to get one photograph before deadline that I felt absolutely needed to be in my upcoming book, Cinnamon & Salt: Small Bites from the Lagoon City.

It was a photograph of a fresco in Palazzo Grimani. I think it has finally overthrown Pontormo’s Deposition in Florence’s Santa Felicita church as my very favourite fresco. Painted around 1563 by Camillo Mantovano, it is an incredibly detailed depiction of fruit trees, plants and native birds, and amongst all of it you can find tall stalks of corn — a plant from the New World which had only been considered ‘ornamental’ a couple of decades earlier, and that was soon to become the Veneto’s most important meal: polenta. Take a peek of it here on this instagram post. And pop Palazzo Grimani on your list for your next visit to Venice.

I also went to my favourite Fondamenta (which is what streets that line a canal are called in Venice), which is really one long street but changes names: the Fondamenta degli Ormesini and Fondamenta Misericordia. I’m often in this neighbourhood visiting friends and this is a great place to meet up because it is lined with some wonderful places to eat, drink and shop. One warning, in the summer it is incredibly hot and sunny during the day (on the flip side, in the winter this is perfect to come and catch some rays on a sunny day) and you’ll see it come alive in the evening.

Here’s a peek at my address book (I’ll be making a full guide that will be available very soon!):

  • Torrefazione Cannaregio — the only coffee roaster in Venice! They’ve been doing this since 1930. Come early as they’re only open in the morning.

  • Codex Venezia — the charming atelier of artist Nelson Kishi who makes beautiful artwork and books inspired by Venice and nature.

  • Oficina Ormesini — a modern bar and restaurant for colourful cicchetti (below), a nice spot to sit out on the canal.

  • La sete — lovely wine bar *just*around the corner from the Fondamenta (and their restaurant nextdoor Osteria da Rioba)

  • Sulla Luna — cute children’s bookshop and bar/restaurant. Books and food. My favourite combination.

  • Bacaro del Gelato — delicious artisan gelato (the one with pistachio cream spread over the top!)

  • Vino Vero — “no spritz, sorry” proudly displayed on their window, this is a wine bar that really does wine best. I’m not a huge fan of the cicchetti but they have a great selection of natural Triple A (agricoltori, artigiani, artisti) wines.

Planning a trip to Venice? I also have these guides on my blog:

  • This list has my favourite pastry shop, art museum and campo for a spritz.

  • This list has my favourite spots to go when I’ve got the kids in tow (lots of cicchetti!)

  • This list has even more cicchetti! It’s an oldie but these are still my favourites.

Emiko x