How to travel in Italy without Airbnb
Apartheid-free accommodation and a growing list of beautiful, small, caring places to stay
There are so many reasons to boycott Airbnb these days that I don’t know why people are still using it, but in case you needed a tiny bit of encouragement to finally break up with Airbnb for good, I have a few thoughts here.
I’ve long talked about the issues that cities like Florence have faced because of Airbnb (so many cities to mention though - when I began talking about this, I heard similar stories from Kyoto to Barcelona to Boston, so this is a global issue). I personally left Florence because of rental costs becoming completely prohibitive for a small family, all thanks to Airbnb. And Airbnb has not only made rentals more expensive, but even hotels — something people haven’t realised for years is that Airbnb was never cheaper than staying in a hotel, at least not in Florence.
Is overtourism killing Florence's dining scene?
A few weeks ago I posted a couple of stories about a restaurant closing in Florence citing “hit and run” tourism (and yes, there is a reference to a certain panino shop) as one of the downfalls and I got many interesting conversations from those stories, I could see it coming together as something to talk about more broadly than in an Instagram story or…
Since 2012, the number of Airbnbs in Florence has risen from 150 to over 12,000. Over 70% of them are in the historical centre and 80% of these are entire apartments (do the quick calculation of how many people have been kicked out of their apartment in favour of making money from tourists instead).
I think one of the problems with Airbnb is the offer of a false sense of home while vacationing, and in some places this might work, but in the context of many cities, like Florence, this could not be further from the real thing. Alicia Kennedy recently wrote this thoughtful piece On Tourists and Food (“neighbourhoods overrun by tourists can’t sustain a food culture”), where she talks about a similar proliferation of short-term rentals in Puerto Rico, as the archipelago’s population is in decline.
The cost of accommodation for everyone, tourists, students (international and local) and residents alike, has gone up astronomically. And as apartments in the historical centres of Italy’s most special cities get emptied of residents and filled with tourists, the knock-on effect is that entire neighbourhoods have lost their character and become an empty, touristy void. Gone are the little shops of shoe-repairers, delis and fruit and vegetable sellers — tourists don’t need their services. In their place are more sandwich shops, trinkets and fake leather bags. Does anyone actually want this?
But now there is a much more important reason to boycott Airbnb and it is because of the recent findings by Francesca Albanese, the UN special rapporteur on the Palestinian occupied territories. On the 30th of June, she released a report titled From Economy of Occupation to Economy of Genocide on the companies that are complicit and profiting from the genocide and occupation of Palestine. She names 48 corporations from diverse industries, from agriculture to military technology to tourism, and both Airbnb and Booking are on this list. These companies aid Israel’s occupation and oppression of Palestinians by enabling settler expansion. You can also see this video produced by The Guardian on how Israeli settlers are profiting on illegally stolen land, which is enabled by Airbnb and Booking.
If this isn’t the deal breaker, then I don’t know what else will convince people to stop using Airbnb and Booking.
When I posted about this recently on instagram stories (after responding to a request from Airbnb to collaborate with them) and I had a HUGE response from all kinds of concerned people, which led to many meaningful conversations from both people who rent their rooms on Airbnb and make a living from it, and those who like to use it while traveling and it resulted in an ever-growing list of businesses who don’t use Airbnb (and those who are trying to wean themselves off it). Many of you asked me to save this somewhere or keep this list and although you can go back to my highlights to see the original posts, I’ve decided to do that here to make it easier. Some people even asked me to create a network and although I haven’t figured out yet how to do that, I know that there is already a website called Fairbnb that does something similar.
By far, the top question I got from people was this:
How do you find accommodation without Airbnb?
Use a search tool to find the names of accommodations in the area you’re looking for. Some might even use Booking for this very thing, as you can search availability by date, but just to look up the names of the accommodation. I often use a map to search for accommodation options in a specific place. Then once you find the names of the accommodation you’re interested in, look up their official website and contact them directly. I have been doing it this way for years now and I can say that every single time I have paid less than what Airbnb or Booking costs.
In Italy, I often search for staying in an agriturismo — these are working farms with affordable accommodation, so are usually in the countryside so you do need a car. There are plenty of websites that list agriturismi where you can search by region or date. This kind of accommodation can range from rustic to chic, they may also have a restaurant where they serve the food they grow themselves and perhaps a pool. Some have rooms or apartments with kitchenettes (this is for those people who wrote to me, oh but I don’t like staying in hotels, I want my own kitchen).
I don’t know if you’re old enough to remember the times we used to travel without smart phones, but we were all able to find and book accommodation before Airbnb became mainstream! When I arrived in Florence alone to study etching in 2001, I literally arrived with a suitcase in my hand and nothing booked. I had to make a call from the pay phone and the first place I stayed was a convent!
Either way, contacting directly the accommodation is always going to get you the best deal and keep your conscience in tact.
After posting about this stories I also had many people who run accommodations that contacted me saying that they weren’t confident they would be able to get the visibility and make a living without Airbnb or Booking, but that they wanted to try to change this. I’m here to say, give it a go: start small, build a community on social media, encourage word of mouth, encourage people to share their experience by explaining why you’re not using Airbnb anymore.
Word of mouth is, I think, still the best way to find good accommodation!
An Airbnb/Apartheid-free List
I have kept this list of places to stay to just small businesses in various parts of Italy, rather than hotels (as these are fairly straightforward to look up). These are not just a place to sleep but the kind of places that contribute to, and not ruin a place.
This is by no means a definitive list, just a starting point! But I will continue adding to it and please feel free to add places that you know and recommend in the comments too.
TUSCANY
San Miniato
I have a whole list of suggestions here on where to stay in my little town, although some of these accommodations are listed on Airbnb currently, I have given their emails so you can just contact them directly.
Irene and Paolo are my heroes. They have restored by hand Irene’s childhood home in Lastra a Signa, Tuscany (15 mins from Florence), to turn into a B&B. They have never used booking platforms, only getting their clients booking directly. Irene’s Instagram account is a great example of how to build community and offer much more than just accommodation — she is an inspiration. And her place is truly just as you’d imagine it, I have photographed three of my cookbooks here! Irene’s Instagram is also a great example for those small businesses wondering how to build a community and not rely on booking platforms.
A beautifully restored organic agriturismo (it feels more like a modern resort than a rustic farm) near Buggiano Castello, between Lucca and Pistoia, all created with the utmost care by my friends Emilio and Sara. They make their own (natural) wine, olive oil and harvest precious Sorana beans every September. They have a lovely little restaurant and often have events such as live music and theatre in the summer. It’s absolutely dreamy. If you’re there in May or June, look up the dates for the nearby private citrus garden opening which happens only once a year.
LAZIO
An ecological accommodation in Mompeo, about 45km outside of Rome, an undiscovered area of rural Italy. They do homemade breakfast and dinners (organic and vegetarian) and they also run pottery and artist retreats. Email fiumefarfa@gmail.com
A charming, organic agriturismo with a beautiful pool and renovated cabin-like rooms, just outside of Rome. Mariangela and her artist husband have created a getaway right on the doorstep of the Eternal city. Restful rooms (I have stayed twice in the Japanese room, it is dreamy) and breakfasts on the terrace with their chickens’ fresh eggs, homemade juice and jams and freshly baked bread, or in their cosy dining room by the fire. They also host creative and foodie events. You do need a car.
UMBRIA
Run by Danish couple, Lisbeth and Thomas, this beautiful guesthouse in Todi, Umbria, blends Italian charm with Scandinavian style. They run cooking classes, too — oh and did I mention these food loving Italophiles were chefs before they opened il Ghiottone Umbro (which means the greedy Umbrian)?
This one is a special place, for a special occasion (and for higher budgets) but I wanted to mention it because it is truly one of the loveliest places I’ve visited. Eileen and Lorenzo have created this haven over three decades, from scratch, when they discovered this area while doing bike tours around Umbria decades ago and I love their story. Their wines are some of our favourite in Enoteca Marilu and they are champions of their local community. The townhouse is in the little town of Collazzone and it is just the kind of place I love and want to unwind in — there is not much going on, except at the local bar and pizzeria. A real slice of untouched Italy. It’s a great base to explore Umbria from (here’s my address book after a stay here):
A quiet gem in Umbria: a mini address book
I admit, I immediately started looking up dream houses in Umbria. One can/should always dream, right? How it is that I’ve spent almost 20 years calling Tuscany home and never spent time in our neighbouring region, Umbria, I do not know. All I can say is it’s never too late to discover new places and make up for lost time!
ABRUZZO
Slow living in a beautiful 19th century farmhouse near Pescara in picturesque Abruzzo. Giulia is trying to get off booking platforms — this is her full time business but she isn’t confident that she will get enough bookings going without these platforms. She does cooking classes too! Email giulia@casalecenturioneabruzzo.it
This is a unique oasis, a 1970s teak cabin in the woods of Abruzzo, surrounded by fir, beech and chestnut trees. Immersed in nature (ski slopes and walks are easily accessible), yet only 10 minutes drive to Guardiagrele, a charming medieval town and a 2 hour drive from Rome. They run regular events and workshops here too (see their instagram). You rent this place as an entire house, it sleeps 8 and you can book a chef to cook at home too — like having a restaurant in your home.
My incredible friend, Mia La Rocca aka
, who I wrote about here, has opened her grandfather’s home in Pacentro, Abruzzo, to create an interdisciplinary artist residence. As a beekeeper by practice who loves bringing people together through food, she also runs fascinating workshops. Check out the calendar here.PUGLIA
A charming little apartment in Molo di Bari with a sea view and the cutest neighbours that sell their backyard fruit and vegetables on a chair outside their door! They are currently on Airbnb but would like to get off it — you can contact them on Instagram.
LE MARCHE
A peaceful little bed and breakfast with 2 rooms and a saltwater swimming pool in the beautiful countryside of Le Marche, run by ex-Londoners Mike and Kelda.
In the heart of Fabriano’s historic centre (for paper nerds like me: yes, that is where the most beautiful Italian paper is made, near Ancona in Le Marche), Casa Renata and Casa Alberto are two thoughtfully restored apartments designed for slow stays.
Where else can you recommend?
These seem to be idillic places but I live in a big house with a garden steps, from walks in nature...when I travel I want cities! Museums, exhibits, concerts, architecture...and no car! Please give us tips to find accommodations in the heart of big cities, with the possibility of cooking because going to the local markets to actually buy food is one of the great pleasures of travel!
For those who prefer to visit cities, home exchanges are the most rewarding and loveliest way to experience a real home, lived in by real people (and sometimes, pets). I first visited Florence that way, twenty-five years ago. It's respectful (as it's an exchange with real locals) and based on trust. Airbnb is a soul-less rip-off.