Heroic viticulture in Italy

When winemaking goes extreme. What it is and what to taste.

The first time I visited Francesco Carfagna’s vineyards I was just starting to work on my manuscript for Acquacotta. An ex-mathematics teacher turned winemaker, he and his family have an eccentric home and winery, a cylinder-shaped old flour mill on the edge of the cemetery of Giglio island — a beautiful, granite island in southern Tuscany — and an equa…